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Tail surface alignment, I use a stick forward to one of the bulkheads in the fuselage
Left side of stab, my eyes can’t do as good a job as a go – no go gauge
Into the corner here at a forward bulkhead
I have cut some load spreaders as well for where the screws go thru the stab. There is a piece of 1/16 sheet that goes down over this area top and bottom where the stab meets the fuselage
at the rear a piece of CF tube, which I will later glue into the fin
Rear wing mount perch, one hole one t nut, and pre drilled thru the edges a couple holes which I can later use to pin and glue this to the ply doubbler of the fuselage sides
wing rear with mount
wing with 3 bolts
Mounts in place
again, slow set epoxy
T nuts, some tri stock, and some little fillers of ply
Left upper d tube sheet cut to suit spoiler
Glued and pinned sheeting epoxy at spar ends and where the forward screw blocks sit
some filler sheet precut , ready to glue in place
Tail, spread side panels, room for the elevator pushrod, and a rear fastening point for the stab and fin
I moved the rudder pushrod slot forward to allow clearance for the 2-56 end as well as the kwik link
small holes and t pins, that gives me room for adjustment before I open the holes up to suit the screws
This line is square from the center rear
a little overlap of the bottom sheet onto the nose block, I will add a layer of fg cloth at some point later
Getting the fuse square, and aligned over center
As you may remember , the Design calls for the stab horn in the center of the fuselage, and the space needed was not there as drawn. I have spread the sides apart and filed some clearance for the clevis in the lower longerons at the rear.
Rudder control out the left side, there’s a similar slot on the other side that I will plug later
Not to early to add a servo tray, and will also include a partial bulkhead and the front edge, which will serve as a ledge for the tray and hold the fuselage to the shape on the plans
a couple nice straight edges sent to me by a Friend, Thanks Bruce
I’ll put these to good use
trailing edge upper sheet
both tip panels
More rib caps, I do all the cutting with a single edge razor blade
Lining up the panels, they should be pretty close with the joiners, and this gives me a chance to get the top sheeting in the correct locaation
short on lumber the Leading edge would be better served with 5/ 16 x 5/16 material rather then the 1/4 stuff supplied.
some servo and rail parts for the spoilers
the lower sheeting needs notches for the servo access door
I am really enjoying this building, there’s enough detail with no information that I get to come up with my own way of doing things. Something that occurs more often with a scratch Build
The elevator control horn, and it’s location is of particular interest and has consumed me.
All lines on the drawing point to the push rod and the horn being in the center of the fuselage, looking down
a couple pieces 1/8 spruce stuck in between the fuse side, and as you can see the horn clevis etc will not go in there considering there is 1/8 wide spruce longerons to be added at the top edge as well
The tail post on the fin is 1/4 wide, I can always add some material on either side to center it between the fuse sides
adding enough space between the longerons means spreading the fuse sides apart an additional 3/16 inch
This looks like it should work, but there is an extra slot in the fuse side for a second push rod, huum you tell me.
Aha, you thought I was gonna give up , nope not me not like the 100’s of others that have these wonderful Foxbat Kits, in various stages of build or have them on the shelf
See you soon, same bat time, same bat channel
I added the lower sheeting as I built up the tip panels, and need to shave some material away from the Leading edge Balsa
Both spar ends of the inner panels, at the joiner boxes get a wrap
tip panel leading edges in place and glued
Servos for the Foxbat
Got the replacement sides for the fuselage, and have epoxied them together with the bottoms set against a straight edge
Forward ply doubler , aligned and set with 24 hr epoxy
Other side, watch for left and light when you add these doubblers, no going back later
Clean, no excess glue, I will stack them together later and edge sand a bit
Longeron bits and pieces from the ply doubler back to the fin tailpost
They get beveled at the forward end as well, to fit snug against the doubler
Back end of fuse, fin tail post, sets flush with the edge, and the spars come to the post
a bit of an offset here where the elevator sits
Lower longeron gets epoxied, and aligned to the lower edge
Hollowed nose block as well as Gauge for root rib angles
I have relieved the other two inner pieces of the nose block. will cast some lead in there later in case it is needed
I will place the tip panels later and add the lower TE stock.
Nov 18 , More to see
I zeroed the lower spar, and built up the ribs and shear webs, To much offset for my liking. The pitch on the drawing for the tip ribs is consistant, and that’s what I will go with. and will cut shear webs after to fit
Back to my original plan, mark the spars and should be tough to get an error
I also drew the outline of the opposite side tip panel. The rear is actually importent at some point, the LE is defined by the ribs, and I will just make sure I get the longest rib location correct and work to the tip from there when it comes to the left panel
I have extended the forward lower spar location on the plan so I can pick it up after the lower d box sheet goes down
I had previously cut a taper in the lower sheeting, and cut the rear edge straight. A four foot level up against some, pins and a few pins will hold the lower sheet in place. The pins on the right side will be used when I do the opposite panels to locate the other lower d box sheet
Lower sheet in place, and a stop, for the lower spar
I located the spar the same way I located the lower sheet, and left those pins in place for the other panel. Spar is shown here glued in place, with the level, and 12 lbs of weight on top
All ribs in place, other then the root rib, which I will deal with later.
Sat Nov 18, Hilite of the Nite
Doing plans , not enough room , try this , In this case a tip panel, of course it’s in color, but a different line weight or line style will work to clarify the different panels The spar is in the same plane, and all the ribs as well except the root rib in this case and the tip rib. Of course when you do your design , you can place those as well so they line up.
Now, I am not a fan of precut shear webs, what If there to small my mind asks. A good set of plans has the pitch for the ribs drawn accurately and then I like to place the ribs accurately.
Extra R2 here, as well as the other end, R1 would have worked just fine, I’ll cut some new ribs, I can trace R1 The spoilers do not go beyond the Rib caps, at either end so the notches are not needed
The other end
I see no reason why R1b wouldn’t work here in place of R3, I will use R3b to add the hole por the pin to the Rib later
R1B should also work here in place of R1
Here I have set the root rib and the spar tight against a block, and built up my rib ladder, alternating ribs and laser cut shearwebs
After 5 ribs I am out two rib widths, not the kind of building I like. Spent quite a bit of time cleaning those shear webs, Honestly perhaps I am not the modern Laser Cut Builder, but placing the ribs at the center they are called for and cutting shear webs from a sheet is more my style. Will it affect things in the end likely not, other then some strange pitch at the end of the panel, perhaps out 1/2 inch or so. Grateful for the Kit, looking like it’s a prototype kit though, and with a few changes will be even better soon
Nov 17 Extra
Root rib from the polyhedral brake, as well as the balsa rib that is inboard, I have centered them on the spar
The plan calls for 1 1/16 TE strips
The TE lines measure 1 3/16 the ply root rib is longer by 1/8 It’s a toss up at this point, I will go with the ribs being accurate, and set the TE more rearward before gluing and make them a little wide as well, perhaps 1/8 to 3/16 inch
Framed, glued, ribs in place and spar pinned down
S3 and S3B could be a bit wider, fore and aft so that the stab ends better lined up with the LE’ and TE’s
Underside, 1/16 x 1/4 spruce spar
Finished, all joints got a bit of a sanding as well, as I felt the Laser cuts where vee’d a bit , and I wanted all joints to be as tight as possible.
47.5 Grams , just off the board, how heavy was yours?
Wing sheeting 12 sheets 1/14 x 4 x 36 17 Grams to 22 Grams a sheet I will use the heavier stuff on the inboard Panel Cut the trailing edges 8 pieces, I believe they are 1 1/16 wide, and bevel the bottom sheet TE so that the top sheet comes down over at the wing TE nicely
Nov 16 Part Two
Pulled some of the pieces from the sheets, just to get a handle on all the Pieces.
There are no Instructions, so I will make sure to go thru all the supplied lumber before I start Hacking
Not a kit for a beginner looking for steps 1 – 100
Rudder pieces, ther must be some lumber somewhere to tie into these slots
Fuselage sides two pieces with keys, and the 1/8 lite ply doubler
Fuselage side join, will have to clean up this area in order to align the edges. Some offset issues with the kerf on the 1/16 balsa cuts for the join
These are spoilers, though a section view on the drawing shows 1/8 material, this appears to be closer to 1/32 ply
AS near as I can tell the Stab horn is at the center of the stab, This means one of these sides has a slot it doesn’t need
I’ve taken all the laser cut pieces for the stab and fin/rudder and cleaned away the retention nibs
Contents of the hardware bag, one of the 2-56 couplers is not threaded
Parts and pieces for the fin and rudder
I previously cleaned up the edges and checked the notches for the ribs
Glued in place, well the frame first and then cut and add the ribs last
That’s it folks, a little drying time and I can hang these up
Yes they do require sanding, tapered trailing edge, LE rounded.
Section views , 3 places for the stab, 1/16 x 14 spar top and bottom
S10 is missing a couple of notches, I’ll add those before I proceed
S7and S6 mis marked her, though it’s quite obvious where they go
Those little pieces known as F7 on the plans where’s Waldo
More ply removed and cleaned up
Nov 15 / 2017
Yes indeed, the Foxbat has landed
The kit is very nicely done and well packed as you can see.
Some of the tabs were not enough to hold the pieces into the sheet, so I will take care when I handle the pieces.
Haven’t unrolled the plans yet, I do see though there is a stash of wood inside there
143 Inch wingspan, 54 Oz or so RES Sailplane