still need to add battery, 4 lead servo harness, rubber strip, Ultrakote, paint
That totals 1215 G or app 43 OZ
Soon gonna be a wrap on this project. Gonna predict 50 oz or so flying weight at this point, mind you where will it balance perhaps I’ll be a little off?
Still need to cast some Lead ballast, get some painting and covering done.
Gonna be traditional red with a splash of yellow on the wings. Perhaps you wondered, it does throw the eagles of.
Does this look like a Challenger, certainly not as big
Buttoning up the fuselage underside and adding a tow hook slot and 1/8 ply reinforcement
Wing finishing touches, back to fuselage real soon
9 Days Later
Working at getting the wings sheeted, and fitting flaps, all takes some time. Before I sheet the wings I wanted to check the incidence as well. If it’s something drastic well, who knows what I will do.
Several Snow Storms Later
The Osprey build continues, cleaning up loose ends and details, before I join the wing panels. The servo cable harness for the wins still needs to be fashioned as it will go in place before I add the top sheeting
Not so nice outside, strong wind, temperature trending warmer, it’s – 2 at the moment and of course there was some snow over nite so that’s blowing around as well
Feb 04 2017
Some more of the Wing Build
These wings have flaps/ flaperons starting at the root and tapering thinner and narrower as you move out to the polyhedral break. They are drawn as built up but I have chosen to build them out of a solid trailing edge with a spruce cap to get the tip a bit harder. I started by getting the necessary 1/16 sheeting for the lower d box and marking the lower spars for the rib placement. The ribs and spars set on the 1/16 sheet as well as a built up trailing edge. The wing trailing edge at the flap opening gets capped with some 3/16 balsa, which I will taper later to suit the ribs.
The inner panel later will get topped of with more 1/16 sheet and spoilers spanning 3 bays.
The kit arrived with a set of mirror plans to do the left wing, but I have chosen to use these plans and flip them. A couple markers, pin holes will be use on the flip side to set my four foot level. This will give me a straight line to set the spar with lower d box sheet. The spar at the root will rest up against another pin, Since I had previously marked the rib locations on the lower spar I will be all set. The rib location lines on the drawing are then really only used to act as parallel indicators in case where the ribs don’t fall directly over the plans.
The trailing edge sheet 1/16 x 3/4 is placed using a spacer set back from the lower spar. If you look on the plan I have marked the important 3 pin holes with a blue circle so they will be easily found later.
More on the Fuselage Build
Stab build continues
I am a big fan of symmetry, especially when it comes to wing halves and stab sets. With that in mind I mark spars where ribs go, set spars down straight on a plan set, and make some measurements to locate leading and trailing edges with respect to spars.
Fuselage sides, Rudder/ Fin, and parts for the Stab
Take care when working with the sides, the laser cut 1/16 balsa pieces fit together nice, but If I was selecting the wood I would choose something a little heavier / harder for the fuselage.
Would love to understand the criteria for choosing this fuselage side panel 1/16 balsa
Cutting spruce and assembling side panels
Had a chance to go over the plans and check some of the cut pieces.
There is some confusion with quantities of Fuselage formers, some are indicated as qty 2 on the plans and only one is included. Perhaps this is a change as a result of removing a blade type wing joiner and replacing it with 5/16 round rod
Also did not see any LE detail on the plans, but I like the idea of adding the LE stock shaped to suite the ribs full length and then gluing the top and bottom sheeting down over the LE. Should be strong that way
Nov 15 2016
use Ballast box as shown on Dwg, round wing rod, perhaps wing retainer spring If hatch can be added at top of fuselage
d box only with cap strips.
change trailing edges to 1/4 x 1 TE stock perhaps also with TE of
3/32 x 1/4 Spruce
bevel built up flaperon leading edge to get plenty of down travel, hinge on top.